A Grand Canyon Family Hike: Camping, Nature, and the Mystery of the Pink Rattlesnake

Ruth Bergman
Mar 11
5 min read

Updated: Mar 20

Getting Ready for a Grand Canyon Adventure

I’m eagerly looking forward to our upcoming trip to Havasu Falls and Grand Canyon rafting. On top of that, I saw a rattlesnake while hiking in San Diego this past weekend, which brought back memories of the special time we spent as a family hiking the Grand Canyon.

The Grand Canyon, of course, needs no introduction—it’s on every nature lover’s must-see list. I had visited several times before, once hiking down the Bright Angel Trail with my parents. I had even seen it from a commercial airplane. Yet, I had never completed the epic journey all the way to the river. So, when I planned a cross-country trip from Princeton, New Jersey, to Oakland, California, in August 2008, this hike became the highlight of the itinerary.

Tackling the Grand Canyon with Little Hikers: Logistics & Tips

In 2008, my children were 12 and 9—old enough for a good hike, but still very much kids. It was also August, which is far from the ideal month for hiking the Grand Canyon due to the extreme heat.

We planned a two-day hike down and back up the South Rim, with an overnight stay at Bright Angel Campground. A rim-to-rim hike would have been too complex to manage as a family. We assessed that the kids could handle the hike, but the two adults would need to carry all the gear. Looking back, it’s nice to remember a time when I was a stronger hiker than Eitan.

I hadn’t planned far enough in advance to secure reservations at Phantom Ranch, but I did manage to book two dinners and four breakfasts, which made for lighter backpacking. We rented all the gear we needed at the store on the South Rim and obtained backcountry permits—though I can’t recall if I reserved them ahead of time. I’m sure you’d have to today.

From Rim to River: Hiking Down the Breathtaking South Kaibab Trail

We camped at the Grand Canyon, somewhere in the South Rim visitor area. We woke up early, packed up the car, and parked it in the large lot near the Bright Angel Trail. From there, we took a shuttle to the start of the Kaibab Trail. After a quick breakfast, we hit the trail as early as we could—it was going to be a hot day.

Before we started, we bought everyone wide-brim hats at the store on the South Rim. My fashion-conscious daughter was appalled, but in a brilliant stroke of parenting, Oren turned it into a game. "Let’s bet: will we see more people with wide-brim hats or baseball caps on the trail?" Suddenly, we had entertainment for the entire walk down.

The Kaibab Trail is an easy walk—mostly downhill, with a steady, comfortable grade. As we descended, the Grand Canyon enveloped us. Red rock formations rose and fell in every direction. The canyon’s size became overwhelmingly real in a way that’s hard to grasp when viewed from the rim. There’s a depth to the views—both across and along the canyon—that is truly breathtaking.

As we made our way down, the day grew warmer. By the time we reached the river, we were all hot. Finally, after crossing the Colorado river and one last downhill stretch, we saw Phantom Ranch. The first thing we did when we arrived at the campground area was dive into a small tributary. It was freezing cold and absolutely wonderful.

Midday at Phantom Ranch: Unwinding at the Bottom of the Grand Canyon

We arrived at the bottom of the canyon around noon. It was too hot to explore the trail along the river, so we enjoyed a picnic lunch and then headed to Phantom Ranch for some refreshing ice-cold lemonade.

At Phantom Ranch, we attended a ranger talk about the snakes of the Grand Canyon. Not my favorite topic, but it turned out to be surprisingly useful information for the rest of the day.

We went to Phantom Ranch for an early dinner. We had only two reserved meals, which were for the kids. But as we walked them to the dining room, the kind servers took pity on us and invited us to join. It turned out to be the best beef stew I’ve ever had.

For evening entertainment, we attended another ranger talk—this time about the geology of the Grand Canyon. The ranger awarded the kids their Junior Ranger badges and swore them in. Then, she dove into the fascinating story of the Colorado Plateau’s formation tens of millions of years ago and how the river has carved the canyon over the past six million years. One attendee, however, was a proponent of young Earth creationism, and I still can’t decide whether his argument with the ranger was more annoying or more ridiculous. The Grand Canyon geology talk seems like the last place a young Earth believer would go!

Setting up camp was easy. There was no need for a tent in the heat, so we slept on top of our sleeping bags. Oren worried about scorpions, but the night passed without incident.

A Rare Sight: The Story of the Grand Canyon’s Pink Rattlesnake

At the ranger talk that afternoon, the ranger spoke at length about the extremely rare Grand Canyon Pink Rattlesnake. Pink, of course, to blend in with the canyon’s red rock—otherwise, it was like any other rattlesnake. She had been stationed at the Grand Canyon for three years and had seen every type of animal that inhabits the canyon, including plenty of snakes. But the number of Grand Canyon Pink Rattlesnakes she had encountered? Zero.

At the time, we didn’t think much of it. But as we were walking to dinner, I spotted something along the path. Having spent years running trails in Southern California, I had gotten pretty good at recognizing rattlesnakes. Almost immediately, I registered the telltale shape of a rattle—with a snake attached to it. A rattlesnake! And—wait—was it… pink? Could it be? The elusive Grand Canyon Pink Rattlesnake, lying there casually across the path? After just attending a whole ranger talk on this very creature, we were pretty confident in our identification.

By pure luck, the snake was right near the ranger station, and the very ranger who had given the talk was standing outside, chatting with colleagues. My daughter ran straight over, and within moments, all the rangers had gathered to see our discovery. And so, at last, that ranger finally got to witness a Grand Canyon Pink Rattlesnake in the wild.

Ascending the Canyon: Tackling the Bright Angel Trail as a Family

The next morning, we enjoyed a full breakfast at Phantom Ranch before setting off early for the long hike up. The kids carried small water bottles, while Oren and I carried the backpacks. The beginning of the trail was wonderful—not too hot, and filled with the quiet beauty of the canyon.

Once we reached Havasupai Gardens, we merged with the crowds and made our way up slowly. We refilled the kids’ water bottles frequently, with just as many bathroom breaks along the way. Despite the challenge, the kids handled the climb without difficulty. Along the trail, many adults marveled at them, especially when they learned the kids had hiked all the way from the river. The hike itself was no small feat—9.5 miles (15.3 km) with 2,480 feet (756 m) of elevation gain.

We felt both joy and a strong sense of accomplishment as we reached the top. Tired but proud, we were more than ready to jump into the waiting car, head to dinner, and enjoy a long, cool shower.

Until Next Time, Grand Canyon: The End of One Adventure, the Start of Another

Now that we knew the kids loved adventure, there would be plenty more to come.

As for the Grand Canyon, it’s a place best explored in depth—and as often as possible. I’m thrilled for the chance to experience it again soon, from yet another perspective.