Kayaking Iceland’s Westfjords: A Journey of Isolation and Discovery

Ruth Bergman
Mar 14
8 min read

Updated: Mar 20

Seeking Solitude and Adventure: The Case for Kayaking Iceland in 2021

By the summer of 2021, after more than a year of not traveling and navigating the ups and downs of COVID isolations, we were more than ready to go somewhere. When considering vacation options, spending time in nature felt like the perfect choice. In nature, we could easily avoid crowds and enjoy some isolation. Iceland seemed like the ideal destination. With many countries still closed to travelers, Iceland was one of the few that remained open and, in fact, hadn’t been hit as hard by the pandemic. Plus, I had been eyeing Iceland’s Westfjords for a while. As the most remote region of the country, it felt like the perfect spot for our trip.

On top of that, Oren and I had been paddling regularly, enjoying the fact that sea activities were still unrestricted in Israel. A quick Google search led us to the perfect company—Borea Adventures—and the perfect expedition, aptly named Paddle in the Wild. It checked all the boxes: a stunning location in Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, Iceland’s most remote and untouched area; the right activity—kayaking; and the perfect challenge. The daily distances would be the longest we’d ever done, but not more than what we had recently tackled on a trip with our kayaking club in Israel.

Before the Paddle: Route, Gear, and Prep for an Iceland Expedition

Preparing for this trip required more organization than most. There were the usual travel arrangements, including getting to Ísafjörður in the far north of Iceland’s Westfjords. While there is an airport there, looking at the trip from Tel Aviv to Ísafjörður, we realized we had to line up several flights to make the connection. This was expedition travel, and the need for a buffer in our travel plans quickly became clear as the trip progressed.

Next, we had the paddling aspect to consider. We needed to be prepared for cold weather and even colder water. We followed the guidance from Borea Adventures, who assured us that dry suits weren’t necessary. I distinctly remember the letter I wrote to them, asking if our neoprene gear, which we have but never use in the Mediterranean, would be enough, and their response was that it should suffice. In hindsight, it was enough, but we were cold at times. If I did it again, I’d opt for a dry suit. As my friend Erik, who we met on this trip, says, 'Why be wet when you can be dry?'

We also invited our lifelong friends, the Delsons, to join us for the first part of the kayaking expedition. They planned to stay for the first four days, while we would continue on for three additional days. Knowing the first few days are easier paddling than the last few days of the trip, it was a perfect arrangement and great way to spend some time together.

Finally, we had to navigate the COVID-related travel requirements. We had our vaccinations and the required documentation in English. We also had our COVID tests and their documentation, in English. We filled out the necessary forms to leave Israel and enter Iceland. After gathering a collection of masks, we were ready to go.

A Homestead of History: Paddling from the Doctor's House in Læknihúsið

Ísafjörður is home to Borea Adventures. It’s a worthy destination in itself—a charming Icelandic town nestled in a quiet fjord. But we were bound for nature, wild nature. We met at the Borea headquarters in the morning with the rest of the participants on the trip. After going through the usual gear preparations for paddling, we boarded a boat that took us and our kayaks across the bay to Hornstrandir Nature Reserve. Along the way, we spotted whale spouts in the distance.

Throughout the boat ride, I kept wondering how we were going to get the kayaks onto land on the other side. When we reached the tiny settlement of Læknihúsið, my question was answered as I watched the spectacle of unloading the kayaks.

We walked over to a well-maintained guesthouse, which had once been home to the town's doctor and is now owned and managed by his grandson. Later that evening, we were treated to a traditional Icelandic dinner and music played by our host.

We also noticed someone coughing quite a bit. We noted it—it was COVID times, after all—but didn’t think much of it. We were focused on kayaking, which we did shortly after arriving at Hornstrandir. It was a short, easy paddle in the calm water of the fjord, with waterfalls coming down from the glacier everywhere I looked, and a small snack break at a picturesque waterfalls.

Into Tranquil Waters: Paddling the Fjords from the Borea Hut

On a foggy morning, we set off from the Doctor’s House for a long paddle, crossing two fjords. Our guide prepared us for the crossings. The first, in the morning, was easy. As we rounded a corner, we picked up a little companion—a curious seal that followed us for several hundred meters, surfacing and diving near our kayaks.

By the second crossing, the wind had picked up, making things more exciting. After that we went along the shore in calm water, we rounded the headland and pretty soon saw a small house that Borea Adventures uses for their tours. This charming summer house has been thoughtfully renovated while still retaining all its old-world charm.

The next day, we took a leisurely paddle down the fjord to see the glacier and back. Waterfalls cascaded from the cliffs around us, and our guide knew the most scenic spots to stop for breaks. She even handed out an emergency blanket to help keep us warm during those pauses. Along the way, we visited a seal colony before returning to the comforts of the hut—a warm dinner, a sauna, and a shower. A couple of our group even braved a cold plunge in the creek next to the hut after their sauna session. An evening visitor came to check out our dinner leftovers, our first sighting of an arctic fox.

Isolation Becomes Quarantine: Paddling into the Wild

The next morning, just as we were getting ready to set off from the hut, our guide gathered us together and hit us with an unexpected twist. A case of COVID had been identified at the Doctor’s House the night we stayed there. As a result, we were now all officially quarantined for six days.

Since the remainder of our trip would take us deep into the wilderness, we were given a choice: continue with the expedition as planned or return by boat that day—provided we had a hotel where we could quarantine. For the five of us who had signed up for the full expedition, the decision was easy: we continued. One family checked with their upcoming accommodations and opted to stick to their original plans. Our friends, the Delsons, found out they couldn’t use their original lodging and decided to stay on for the rest of the expedition. Though we tried to focus on the incredible paddling ahead, there was a nagging worry about the rest of our time in Iceland and whether we’d be able to make our flights home.

We did our best to push the uncertainty aside, and in the beauty and tranquility of the fjords, it wasn’t too hard. These three days ended up being my favorite part of the trip, despite the extenuating circumstances.

Our paddles became more demanding as we covered long distances each day, often making big crossings. Our crossing of Leirufjordur was choppy but we were rewarded with a stunning double-arch rock formation, which we paddled through one by one. The final crossing, on the last day of the trip, was the toughest—10 kilometers with a side wind and small swell. Finishing that one felt like an achievement.

We saw plenty of wildlife and jokingly told the seals to keep their distance—we were quarantined, after all. One evening, near one of our campsites, we discovered an Arctic fox den with two small pups. Wildlife surrounded us, though whales remained elusive.

On the last day, we broke up the long crossing with a stop at Vigur Island, home to a puffin colony. Because of the quarantine, we couldn’t go ashore, but we had a unique vantage point from our kayaks. We paddled right up to the puffin cliffs, watching the colony interact on land. A massive flock rested on the water, and as we glided by, they took off all at once, swirling around us like a storm of puffins—an unforgettable experience.

We camped in secluded, carefully chosen coves, each one more beautiful than the last. Since our friends who extended their trip needed extra camping gear, the Borea boat made a supply drop for us—including a very well-received case of beer.

To my surprise, I really loved camping. It’s not that I enjoy setting up and breaking down camp every day. I certainly don’t prefer a camp mattress and sleeping bag to my king-sized bed. But I love the peacefulness of a campground—that quiet time between setting up camp and dinner, when you can sit, fully immersed in nature, and simply observe. You can let your mind wander while sipping a cup of tea. You can chase after a small, furry animal if one happens to scurry by. Nothing in the world compares to the serenity of a few days in true wilderness.

From Fjords to Hotels: The Transition from Wilderness to Quarantine in Reykjavik

At the end of the sixth day, after a long paddle, we landed a bit outside the town of Súðavík, avoiding it due to the quarantine. From there, we made a quick trip back to Ísafjörður. Since we were required to quarantine in Reykjavík, we all had to cancel our original post-expedition accommodations. Thankfully, the kind folks at Borea Adventures took care of all the necessary arrangements. When we arrived, a to-go dinner and two rental cars were waiting for us.

Fitting eight people and all our gear into two small rental cars wasn’t easy, but we made it work. The six-hour drive after a full day of paddling wasn’t easy either, but with frequent driver swaps and plenty of effort to keep each other awake, we managed that too.

Almost as soon as we left Isafjorder, we finally the spotted a whale in the fjord. We decided that whale watching supersedes the instructions not to stop until we reach the hotel in Reykjavik. Now our wildlife experience was complete.

We arrived at the quarantine hotel at 2 a.m., and it was immediately clear that we were the first COVID guests. Eventually, we settled into our rooms, exhausted. The next day, we didn’t mind being confined—it was a welcome chance to rest and binge-watch TV. The hotel provided three meals a day, though we quickly found places that delivered better food. Our group WhatsApp chat became our lifeline.

By the following day, we were restless and eager to be released. Armed with negative COVID test results, we made our case—and won. With our newfound freedom, we were able to enjoy Reykjavík for the rest of our trip until our original flight home.

Paddling Forward: Iceland’s Westfjords Rekindled Our Love for Expedition Kayaking

This expedition in Iceland was our first long wilderness trip in many years—really, since our journey in Glacier Bay. Life has a way of getting in the way if you let it, but I decided I wasn’t going to let that happen anymore. After this trip, we jumped into one kayak expedition after another, and I just can’t get enough.

One thing I strongly recommend: invest in good gear. On this trip, our wetsuits weren’t the right choice. We were cold, and getting out of them after a long day of paddling—while already wet and shivering—was a real struggle. For me, the small discomforts of camping are absolutely worth the experience, and the right gear can make those discomforts much more manageable.

Iceland is a fantastic place to visit, offering a wide range of outdoor activities. It’s surprisingly easy to access, with great internal transportation. But what truly stood out was the Icelandic people—friendly, welcoming, and always happy to share their country with visitors. Our COVID experience only reinforced how well Icelanders manage things with common sense, striking a balance rather than leaning too far into process.

For kayaking, Iceland is an exceptional destination. It has all the key ingredients—fjords with calm waters, diverse sea life, and true isolation from crowds. I also can’t say enough good things about Borea Adventures. They are highly organized, their guides are top professionals, and if your travels take you to Ísafjörður or the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, you won’t find a company that knows the area better.