Laugavegur Trail: If you only do one multi-day trek in your life

Ruth Bergman
Jan 15
5 min read

Updated: Mar 21

Laugavegur: A Trail Through Iceland’s Steaming Heart

Laugavegur is a four-day trek from Landmanalaugar, in the highlands of Iceland, toward Þórsmörk (Thorsmork), near the southern coast. The Laugavegur trail traverses a landscape shaped by volcanic activity, glacial movements, and geothermal processes. The trek passes through areas with striking volcanic landscapes, including colorful rhyolite mountains, lava fields, and craters, which are remnants of past eruptions. Every day delivers novel landscapes and experiences, from hot springs, especially in Landamanalaugar, to extreme river crossings and the lush greenery of Þórsmörk .

I discovered Laugavegur while perusing a National Geographic list of hikes in 2015. Secretly, I had already been considering Iceland, which was becoming a popular destination for Israeli tourists. I needed an epic adventure that would pique Oren's interest. After our first visit, Iceland secured its place at the top of our list of favorite travel destinations. We were exposed to the incredible experiences that a multi-day hike can offer. Laugavegur is an excellent choice for a first multi-day hike and is a trail you can enjoy year after year.

Laugavegur Trek: volcanic rock with icy hills at Landamanalaugar

Laugavegur Logistics

Like many European mountain treks, there are rustic mountain huts along the trail. These huts provide accommodations for hikers, and essential needs including a basic kitchen, allowing guests to prepare their own meals. In addition to the kitchen area, a second-floor attic space is furnished with mattresses for group sleeping. The huts are a great place to meet your fellow hikers and learn from them. For those who prefer camping, campgrounds are available near each hut, and shower facilities can be accessed for a fee, ensuring that hikers have the necessary amenities to refresh themselves after a long day on the trail.

You need to book these huts ahead of time. I booked a trip with Arctic Adventures, which was way easier than trying to figure out which huts were at the right distances and then trying to reserve them. Arctic Adventures offered a self-guided trip with luggage transfer, which was just what we needed.

When you book a self-guided trip with luggage transfer, it usually lines up with their guided trips, so you end up hanging out with the group a lot. Keep that in mind when you're booking. But honestly, there's nothing better than hiking with just a small daypack.

A serene view of a mountain hut on the Laugavegur Trek, surrounded by snow-dappled hills under a vast, cloudy sky.

Day 1 - Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker - Colors Galore

On the first day you take the tourist bus from Reykjavik to Landamannalaugar. (Yes, I can pronounce that. It took some practice.) You arrive to a colorful valley surrounded by vibrant mountains. The first day's hike is a constant elevation gain. It is the most difficult terrain of the trek, but so beautiful and other-worldly that you hardly notice. A short way into the hike, the open mountain view is obscured by steam coming from many hot springs and fumaroles.

The hike was not long, 3 or 4 hours, but so much of it in snow, cold and whiteout conditions that we were very happy when we reached the Hrafntinnusker hut.

Laugavegur Trek: steam rising from hot springs near Landmannalaugar

Day 2 - Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn - Alps meet Hawaii

This part of the trail boasts vast highland plateaus with vistas of distant glaciers and volcanic peaks, descending towards the tranquil Álftavatn lake. The majority of the day involves a descent, initially quite steep but gradually easing as the day goes on. We awoke to clearer weather, free from the fog of the first day. By mid-morning, the valley unfolded before us, offering an alpine view blanketed in tundra. However, upon closer inspection, it is characterized by evidence of volcanic activity, such as a bubbling stream bed or a hexagonal rock wall.

Laugavegur Trek: Alpine peaks covered by ice

Day 3 - Álftavatn to Emstrur - The Black Desert

On the third day, the landscape shifts to dramatic canyons and black sand deserts, framed by towering mountains and the impressive Markarfljót river canyon. Hiking for an hour or more across this black sand desert, I might as well have been on the moon. So unusual and foreign did this terrain seem. This walk was beautiful and hypnotic.

Day 4 - Emstrur to Þórsmörk - Green Woods

The final leg descends into lush green valleys, marked by birch forests and glacial rivers, providing a stark contrast to the arid landscapes of previous days. I was surprised to hear from several Icelanders who hiked with us that Þórsmörk is their favorite landscape in Iceland. Iceland is rich in ice and fire, along with all the associated colors, yet Þórsmörk appears to be just a regular forest. It is not particularly impressive; the so-called trees are little more than bushes. This observation made me realize that Þórsmörk is the only place in Iceland where trees grow, as the island consists of relatively new volcanic ground.

July Hiking in Iceland: A Snowy Surprise

A few days before were departed Israel for Iceland, we were informed by out tour organizers that there is still a lot of snow in the Iceland highlands, and our trip may have to be cancelled. We were very glad that after arriving to Iceland, the trip was going out after all. We just didn't realize the implications. On the first day, after about an hour of hiking up, we started to see snow on the trail, and not long after that, we were simply walking on snow. This trail condition lasted for around three hours on the first day and the first hour of the second day.

In general, the Laugavegur trail is well marked and is popular enough to follow the group ahead while still maintaining distance. On this day, with snow on the ground and whiteout conditions, it still would have been hard to get lost. The trail was well-trodden and easy to follow. But, other hikers were hidden by the fog much of the time. A little uncomfortable, to be sure.

A snow-covered trail was not the only excitement we experienced on this hike. Due to heavy snow melt, the many streams along the hike were high. We had a couple of stream crossings with water up to our waist. Did I mention... ice cold water!

The Afternoon Hike: Do Not Skip It

Most days, the 16 km daily hike brought us to the hut early enough and with sufficient energy that when the hut host suggested taking their afternoon walk, we readily agreed. Let me tell you—these afternoon walks are not to be missed. Perhaps I didn't do enough research on what to expect, but we encountered the most spectacular views during these afternoon excursions.

Laugavegur Trek: View of canyon with rhyolite rocks near Emstrur hut

Final reflections on this remarkable hike

This daily variation in terrain of Laugavegur trail not only offers stunning vistas but also showcases the geological processes that have shaped Iceland over millennia. Each step on the Laugavegur trail reveals a new chapter in the story of the Earth, making it a truly unforgettable trekking experience.

I have to do this hike again, this time later in the season. The trail, which we hiked in snow, is reputed to be an expanse of granite rocks and a highlight of the trail. I have to see it. And, I'd be perfectly happy to see all the rest of it as well. Now that I have more experience with multi-day treks, I would absolutely consider the extensions of the trail to 6 or 8 days. Who's in?