Strength in Strides: Completing the Iconic Tour du Mont Blanc
- Ruth Bergman
- Jan 24
- 13 min read
Updated: Mar 20
Tour du Mont Blanc, Here I Come!
I wish I could remember the exact moment I decided to tackle the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) so I could share it here. I think I was antsy with anticipation for Antarctica and needed another adventure to fill the time.
The TMB is an iconic Alpine hike that’s enticing for so many reasons. It’s challenging but absolutely doable, especially with the fantastic support provided by the local huts. My son has done a couple of hut-to-hut hikes, and honestly, I was a bit jealous. The beauty of the Alps is undisputed. I’ve skied in this region many times and always longed to see it in summer—green and bursting with wildflowers, with lakes, creeks, and rivers weaving through the landscape. This alpine scenery feels like the definition of natural beauty, the very image I saw in so many puzzles I put together as a child. Who wouldn’t want to spend ten days walking through this fairy-tale world?
But let me tell you—this hike is no mere walk. It’s 160 km from Les Houches to Chamonix, with about 1,000 meters of ascent and descent every day. It’s the kind of grind that quickly shows you whether you love this kind of trip or not. (Spoiler: I love it.)
The Start of Something Incredible
Thanks to a variety of constraints—chief among them scheduling—I ended up traveling with my son, Eitan, who turned 26 on Day 2 of the trip. He’s an incredible travel and hiking companion, and I’m beyond grateful he’s willing to take on an adventure with his mom. That said, let’s be real—it can be a bit humbling (and, at times, downright demoralizing) to always be the slower one on the trail.
And so, there we were. Backpacks packed, hiking poles ready, and all the unnecessary extras left behind at our hotel in Chamonix.
I booked the tour through Booktrekking. They reserved huts for us and provided a full hiking guide, with daily trail descriptions and maps. Compared to many of the tour companies, they are very reasonably priced. It is much easier to book a tour than arrange accommodations directly with the huts. Since I decided to take this trip in February, I don't think I would have been able to string together a sequence of huts. Others on the trail love the process of researching the trail and huts, and, if you start in October, you can probably manage hut reservations.
The hut-to-hut experience is all about traveling light, so our packs held just the essentials: clothes, toiletries, and a few snacks. Booktrekking provided a packing list, and I prepared well for the trip, but in hindsight, it wasn’t entirely necessary. The TMB passes through a town almost every day, so you can easily pick up anything you’ve forgotten or run out of.
We were excited and, looking back, blissfully unaware of what lay ahead.
Four Seasons in One Day on TMB
Our TMB adventure began on June 16, 2024—just one day after the trail officially opened for the season. The route crosses four high mountain passes that define the borders between France, Italy, and Switzerland. We’d heard there was still plenty of snow on the passes, but the trail was open and reportedly not too difficult to follow. Thankfully, that turned out to be true. While we had to skip some alternate routes that hadn’t opened yet, we could make the TMB loop.
The 10-day forecast had us feeling optimistic, with highs of 20–25°C and lows between 10°C and 15°C. Most days were predicted to be partly sunny, with a mix of clouds and maybe one or two fully sunny days. Sounds ideal, right? But the Alps had their own surprises in store. Between unexpected weather shifts and snow-covered passes, our hike quickly became more than just “interesting.” At times, it was downright nerve-wracking.
From Snowy Passes to Flowered Meadows: The Ever-Changing TMB
On Day 1, the trail started off easy at Les Houches but quickly transformed into a steep climb along the local ski slopes. My pack felt heavy and cumbersome, and I found myself constantly adjusting the various straps, trying to find some relief. That first day was tough and long. The trail grew even steeper as we approached the Bionnassay Glacier, but the breathtaking views made it worth the effort. The descent from the top of the pass was knee-jarring, and following that, there were still two kilometers to Le Truc hut and a disheartening additional 200-meter climb. Nothing in the world felt as good as dropping that backpack onto the picnic table at the hut.
That was just Day 1, where the weather was perfect and the trail conditions were good. Things got far more exciting in the days that followed.
On Day 3, we faced our first high mountain pass, Col de Bonhomme. It was a beautiful sunny day—thankfully—because not long after leaving the hut, the trail was blanketed in snow. Luckily, it was easy to follow thanks to the countless hikers who had already crossed this section. The climb in the snow wasn’t too difficult, and by then, I was starting to get used to the pack. The views were magnificent—a stunning mix of summer greens and winter whites. However, the descent was another story. The steep, snowy trail turned slippery, and keeping our footing was nearly impossible. We slipped and fell several times, soaking ourselves in the snow. Thankfully, the sun dried us off quickly, but it was a humbling experience.
Over the ten days of the TMB, we navigated vertical ladders, icy trails, muddy paths, and river crossings, both large and small. Trekking poles became our best friends on stream crossings—I never realized how much of a difference they could make. We walked in both sunshine and rain. On Day 7, rain poured relentlessly as we reached Champex, a picture-perfect Swiss alpine town that somehow still looked like a fairy tale despite the downpour. We arrived at Relais d’Arpette drenched, cold, and desperate for warmth.
After a lovely lunch of focaccia in Courmayeur, on Day 5, we hiked in an endless drizzle, getting soaked over the 760-meter climb to Rifugio Giorgio Bertone.
The most treacherous part of the trail came on Day 4, just after crossing the Seigne Pass into Italy on our way to Rifugio Maison Vieille. The descent from the pass was steep, snow-covered, and incredibly slippery. After falling a few times, I decided to embrace the inevitable and simply slide down. It’s not the safest choice—you can’t always control your speed or stop easily—but when it’s intentional, sliding can be fun. The trail was so heavily traversed that you could see two clear paths: one for walkers and one for sliders.
Later that same day, we encountered another challenge at a lower elevation. The snow-covered trail hovered precariously above streams of snowmelt. The risk of falling through was real, and we watched it happen to hiker after hiker. We weren’t spared, either, and ended the day with soaked shoes. But no broken legs, so we considered that a win.
The TMB was a test of endurance, adaptability, and determination. Every day brought new challenges, but also unforgettable beauty and adventure.
Rest, Recharge, Repeat: Life in the TMB Huts
Walking the TMB isn’t a wilderness trek—it’s a highly civilized and surprisingly orderly experience. There’s a rhythm to the day, no matter where you are, how high you’ve climbed, or what the weather throws at you. Breakfast is served at 7 a.m., and by 8 a.m., hikers are usually hitting the trail. The path doesn’t feel crowded, though, as people quickly spread out, reconvening at natural stopping points—often the next hut or a breathtaking viewpoint. The most common TMB itinerary is 11 days, but our tour was arranged for 10. With huts thoughtfully spaced along the route, it’s easy to find a pace that works for you. Midway huts are perfect for a break, snack, or lunch.
Our arrival times at the huts varied depending on the day’s distance and difficulty. On the first day, after a long and challenging hike, we made it to Auberge du Truc by 5 p.m., just in time to settle in before dinner. In contrast, we arrived at Refuge de La Balme by noon after an easy 11.5 km walk with a gentle 560-meter ascent.
Afternoons at the huts are a chance to rest and recharge—essential for tackling the next day’s trail. Each hut welcomes weary, hungry, and often soaked hikers with picnic tables outside or cozy spaces indoors. The first task? Claim your bed. We spent most nights in dormitories, having snagged a private room only at Refuge des Mottets. The private shower was a treat, but I didn’t mind the dorms either; hikers were considerate, and everything ran like clockwork.
The pre-dinner routine was wonderfully simple: grab a beer, take a shower, stretch out those sore muscles, read a book, or chat with fellow hikers. Laundry facilities were available, so if you weren’t feeling lazy, you could hit the trail the next morning showered and wearing clean clothes. Very civilized, indeed.
Food at the huts was a mixed bag. Breakfast was typically sparse—bread, butter, jam, and some occasional extras. Coffee? Let’s just say it was drinkable, but not much more (I admit, I’m a coffee snob). There were standouts, though: Gîte Le Moulin wins for offering croissants, Gîte Alpage de La Peule had homemade butter, yogurt, and cheese, and Rifugio Gio Bertone served delicious, thick hot cocoa.
Dinners offered more variety, with local specialties shifting as we passed through France, Italy, and Switzerland, adding a delightful taste of regional flavors to each meal. Highlights included the hearty stew at Refuge des Mottets, a big plate of pasta at Rifugio Maison Vieille, fresh salad and curry at Relais D’Arpette’s buffet, and cheese fondue at Auberge Mont Blanc. Speaking of Auberge Mont Blanc—it also had the best party vibe with a sauna and ’80s music to keep the mood light.
The huts were also hubs of connection. Meeting fellow hikers was part of the adventure. Young and old, first-timers like us, and seasoned TMB veterans who return year after year—hikers came from all over the world, each with a unique reason for taking on this adventure. Sharing stories with them around the table added a special camaraderie to the experience. Some even inspired additions to my hiking bucket list!
The Most Exhilirating Mountain Pass
After several rainy days, we woke up on Day 9 to glorious sunshine. By now, my pack felt like a natural extension of me, and my legs had adjusted to the daily pounding of the trail. On this day, we crossed from Switzerland back into France via Col de la Balme. The ascent, though typical with over 1,000 meters of elevation gain, felt surprisingly easy. The trail’s gentle switchbacks and clear conditions made the climb enjoyable. We soaked in the sun and the warmth, a welcome contrast to the chilly, wet days prior.
When we reached the hut at the top of the pass and rounded the corner, we were greeted with the most breathtaking view of the entire TMB. After nine days, Mont Blanc finally revealed itself, standing proud and unobstructed by clouds. It felt like a reward we’d been waiting for, a moment that made all the effort worthwhile. I had hoped to experience Mont Blanc up close in Courmayeur, by taking the cable car, but bad weather had dashed those plans. Now, here it was, like a scene out of The Sound of Music—a sweeping, idyllic landscape that felt almost too perfect to be real.
We lingered at the top, savoring the view, taking photos, and basking in the sheer magnificence of the moment. But with six kilometers and a 1,000-meter descent still ahead of us to reach our hut for the night, we eventually had to shoulder our packs and move on. The memory and photos, though, remain with us—an unforgettable highlight of an incredible journey.
The Most Treacherous Mountain Pass
On Day 6 of our tour, the guide advised us to eat a hearty breakfast. This was set to be the most challenging day of the trek, covering nearly 21 kilometers and featuring one of the Tour’s great climbs—the Col Ferret. Tackling this climb would have been difficult under normal conditions, but we woke up to the worst weather of the trip. The forecast warned of clouds, rain, and fog, all of which would worsen at higher elevations. We spoke with some guides leading groups along the route, and their concern about avalanche risk at the pass only added to our apprehension.
This is when camaraderie becomes essential on a trek like this. By Day 6, we had bonded with several other hikers from Booktrekking who were following the same route. Over the days, we’d shared meals at huts, compared trail notes, swapped stories, and commiserated about sore muscles. On this day, with nerves running high, we decided to stick together as a group for the trek over the pass.
We set off in the rain. Within the first few kilometers, we saw several groups turning back toward Courmayeur to take public transportation around the pass. That left us with a dilemma. None of us wanted to turn back unless the trail became completely impassable. Almost without speaking, Eitan and I silently agreed to press on.
Without too much trouble, we arrived at Rifugio Elena, which is said to have one of the best views on the TMB. Our view from its balcony? Nothing but fog. After a quick snack and some encouragement from other hikers, including a few who had successfully crossed the pass in the opposite direction, we tightened our group and started the climb.
The fog was so thick at times that the path ahead was hard to see, and the steepness of the trail—above or below us—was completely hidden. Step by step, we inched forward, barely lifting our heads until, finally, we reached the top. The conditions were as rough as expected: wet, windy, and bitterly cold. A lone cross at the summit seemed to confirm the treacherous nature of the place.
The descent offered some unexpected fun. Previous hikers had carved out a giant slide in the snow, and we gleefully took turns sliding down. After that, it was about three kilometers of descending through icy trails that soon turned to slush and mud. Eventually, we reached Gîte Alpage de La Peule, tired but triumphant.
Reaching the hut was pure relief. We left our wet, muddy boots and poles in their well-organized party tent and headed inside. For the next few hours, we sat by the fire, warming up with homemade apple pie and chatting with fellow hikers.
Later, we learned that not long after we left Rifugio Elena, the rangers had closed the pass due to avalanche risk. It was a narrow escape. Risky? Yes. But if we hadn’t taken the chance, we couldn’t say we truly completed the Tour du Mont Blanc.
Trail Treasures: Highlights of the TMB
Spending four to nine hours a day outdoors, we covered kilometers of mountain passes, rivers, valleys, and charming Alpine towns. Each day brought fresh sights and experiences. I'll share a few highlights, but remember, these moments are unique to me and my journey. Even Eitan, who walked every step of the 160 kilometers alongside me, might have different favorites. The beauty of the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) is that you’ll create your own unforgettable memories.
In this stunning alpine setting, the highlights were often the views—panoramas from mountain passes or the mesmerizing sight of clouds swirling around jagged rock spires. One such magical moment was on Day 4, walking along Lake Combal. Other highlights included natural and man-made marvels: the hanging bridge over the Bionnassay Glacier drainage, a Roman bridge crossing a deep gorge on Day 2, and the suspension bridge above Trient on Day 8.
Breaks with good coffee also stand out—unsurprisingly, these were all in Italy. Rifugio Maison Vieille offered a fantastic espresso, and the next day, we stumbled upon a small coffee cart with incredible views, a perfect pairing for a mid-hike pause.
Though TMB isn’t a wilderness trek, there’s plenty of wildlife to admire. Birds, butterflies, and insects added life to the trails, and marmots were a common sight, scurrying about the alpine terrain. Our luckiest wildlife encounter happened on Day 10. Just as we were losing hope of spotting any ibex, a majestic male dashed across the trail in front of us. Thanks to his grand appearance, we noticed an entire group perched high on the cliffs above us.
But no animal was more prevalent than the dairy cow. Small dairy farms dot the valleys along the TMB, and the soothing sound of cowbells often accompanied us as we walked. We couldn’t help but admire the craftsmanship of the sturdy iron bells and the beautifully designed leather straps adorning each cow. The music of the Alps indeed has its own charm!
The Trail Ends, But the Memories Live On
When I set out to do the TMB, I expected to enjoy spectacular alpine views, extensive daily activity, and a physical challenge. I anticipated relishing the simplicity of hut-to-hut life. The trek delivered on all these expectations, but it offered something deeper. In the steady rhythm of putting one foot in front of the other I found time to reflect and gained insight into how much I am capable of, and what I can learn to let go of.
On our first night, we met a couple who told us they planned to hike for five days to Courmayeur and then take the train back to Chamonix. When we arrived in Courmayeur halfway through our journey, I realized how unwilling I was to stop. Part of it was because I’m goal-oriented—having started a 160km route, I felt determined to finish. But it was also because I was enjoying every aspect of the daily routine of the hike.
Somewhere around Day 8, I noticed that my backpack no longer felt like a burden. I loved that I could live day after day with everything I owned on my back, needing nothing more than the 15 kilos I was willing to carry.
The TMB was a powerful journey that pushed me physically and mentally. I faced steep ascents, unpredictable weather, and long hours on the trail, but with each step, I grew stronger and more confident. The breathtaking views, the sense of accomplishment at reaching each mountain pass, and the camaraderie with fellow hikers fueled my perseverance. By the end of the trek, I realized the true reward wasn’t just completing the trail—it was discovering the strength and resilience within myself to overcome any obstacle along the way.
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